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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.